Author Archives: Gloria

Be a friend to pollinators

Written By: Gloria on May 16, 2012

USDA and Natural Resources Conservation Service

kingofthewildfrontier.tumblr.com

Animal pollinators are essential to reproduction for 35% of the world's food crops, but they are disappearing. Pollinators are in trouble! Bees, bats, and other animal pollinators face many challenges in the modern world. Habitat loss, disease, parasites, and other environmental contaminants have all contributed to the decline of many species of pollinators.

 

Pollinators visit flowers in their search for food (nectar and pollen). During a flower visit, a pollinator may accidentally brush against the flower’s reproductive parts, unknowingly depositing pollen from a different flower.

sharonfalsetto.suite101.com

The plant then uses the pollen to produce a fruit or seed. Many plants cannot reproduce without pollen carried to them by foraging pollinators. 

Pollinators are critical to the food chain. Some scientists estimate that one out of every three bites of food we eat exists because of pollinators like bees, butterflies and moths, bats and birds, beetles and other insects. 

en.wikipedia.org

Did You Know? A world without pollinators would be a world without apples, blueberries, strawberries, melons, peaches, pumpkins, or even chocolate! It is too horrible to contemplate. 

 

 

 

You can help by providing food and habitat for pollinators to help them thrive: 

mauischoolgardennetwork.org

  • Use pollinator-friendly plants in your landscape. Shrubs and trees such as dogwood, blueberry, cherry, plum, willow, and poplar trees provide pollen or nectar, or both, early in spring, when food is scarce.
  • Choose a mixture of plants in your garden for spring, summer, and fall. Different flower colors, shapes and scents will attract a wide variety of pollinators
  • Eliminate or reduce the use of pesticides in your landscape! Incorporate plants that attract beneficial insects for pest control. (If you do intend to use pesticides, use them sparingly and responsibly.
  • Accept some plant damage on plants meant to provide a hospitable habitat for butterfly and moth larvae.
  • Provide clean water for pollinators with a shallow dish, bowl, or birdbath with half submerged stones for perches. 

 

 

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Cow “poop” Pots

Written By: Gloria on May 8, 2012

news.liquidfence.com

     Two dairy farmers, brothers Matt and Ben Freund from northwest Connecticut have figured out a way to incorporate manure and plants into your garden at the same time. 

"Farmers and gardeners have always considered cow manure a wholesome organic soil amendment for their gardens. The challenge for these two brothers was to find a new and better way to get manure to these gardens and be of true value to consumers. This is why CowPots were born."

sfgate.com

 

     To grow great plants give them a great start. Cow pots are manure based, biodegradable pots you plant. There is no smell and best of all they are sustainable! Unlike peat pots, which are mined from bog eco-systems, or plastic pots, which are from finite fossil fuels, Cowpots are a renewable resource. They are 100% composted manure, rich in nutrients, and they are approved for organics. 
Check out Grower's Solution for a variety of sizes!

     The pots stay intact for at least 12 weeks. Once you plant the pot in the ground, they start to biodegrade, releasing nitrogen into your soil. Within 3 to 4 weeks, the pot should be completely decomposed and the roots will have expanded into the surrounding soil. The pots also help reduce transplant shock because you don't actually remove the plant from the pot. You plant the whole thing!   

ahamodernliving.com

**  Benefits in the production and use of the cow pots are two-fold: They help farmers reduce nutrient loads on their farms, which directly contributes to a cleaner, healthier environment, and Cowpots prove to grow bigger, better plants for consumers who do not have any plastic to discard and overload our landfills.

 Click here for a 'How to use Cow Pots'

Don't forget to check out Grower's Solution and get growing!

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DIY Softwood Propagating

Written By: Gloria on April 25, 2012

     Propagation by stem cuttings is the most commonly used method to propagate many woody ornamental plants. Stem cuttings of many favorite shrubs are quite easy to root.  

Items you will need:

-Sharp knife or pruning shears
-Perlite
-Soilless mix (peat moss)
-Plastic 6 packs and trays with drainage holes
-Rooting hormone
-7 inch Humidity/Propagation dome
Or
-Self-sealing, 1 gal. storage bags and stakes

 

Softwood stem cuttings:  

‘Softwood is the term used to describe the stage of growth on a deciduous woody plant that's neither the new, green growth at the end of a shoot nor the stiff, woody growth near the base of the stem. The softwood lies between the two. The best way to know if a shoot has reached the softwood stage is to bend it. If the softwood snaps, the shoot is ready to be taken as a cutting. If the shoot is very flexible and doesn't snap, it's too green. If the shoot is not flexible at all, it is too far gone.’

hydroempire.com

 Using a sharp knife or pruning shears to minimize damage, cut a 3-5 inch long stem (or side shoot) just below a leaf. Keep cuttings moist until ready for use by wrapping cuttings in moist paper towels or in a bucket of water.

 

 

 

  

prunus.net

  When you have finished taking cuttings, make sure you remove the  leaves along the stem, leaving just a few at the top. This creates wounds that will help aid in the rooting process. Fill your 6 packs to the top with a moistened mixture of perlite and soilless mix. (60% perlite and 40% soilless mix) Check out Grower’s Solution for 6 packs and perlite. 

 

 

gardenworldimages.com

Before you start dipping your cuttings, trim the remaining leaves in half to help cut down on transpiration loss.

 

 

 

 

viewsfromthegarden.com

Pour a small amount of your rooting hormone into another dish, this way you won’t contaminate the remaining hormone. Check out Grower’s Solution for a variety of rooting hormones. 
Dip the cut end into clean water, then into the rooting hormone, making sure the wounds are covered. Gently tap off any excess and stick the stem into the 6 pack. Make sure the cuttings are stable, you don’t want them to fall over or out.  

     

Here is a sample of a finished product ---
                                                                         
                                                                                  

 

 

 

 

 nantuckethydrangea.com

 

 At this time, you will cover the cuttings with the 7 inch humidity dome.  

lh3.ggpht.com

 

 

 

 

 

 

Or put stakes in the corners of the 6 packs and place the pack in a 1 gal., self-sealing storage bag. 

 

finegardening.com                                                                  

Place the covered cuttings in indirect sunlight.

Some cuttings will root faster than others, but allow four to five weeks for roots to develop. Make sure the cuttings stay moist throughout this process. If you allow the cuttings to dry out, they will die. The easiest way to check for roots with minimal disruption is to simple look at the bottom of the 6 pack for white root tips. If you don’t see any, you can gently pull on the tip cutting. If there is some resistance, it’s a good bet that roots have developed. If, when you pull on the cutting and it comes out, simple stick the cutting back into the perlite and give it a few more weeks before checking again. 

Once the cuttings have their roots, transplant them into individual containers with potting mix. When they start putting on new growth, slowly harden them off by acclimating them to the outdoor conditions. After a few weeks, they should be able to transplant into their permanent spot in your garden or yard.

 

Finegardening.com has provided a list of 37 Easy to Propagate shrubs:

Beautyberry (Callicarpa japonica)
Beautybush (Kolkwitzia amabilis)
Blue mist shrub (Caryopteris x clandonensis)
Burning bush (Euonymus alatus)
Butterfly bush (Buddleia davidii)
Chinese stranvaesia (Stranvaesia davidiana)
Crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica)
Daphne (Daphne caucasica)
Deciduous azaleas (Rhododendron cvs.)
Elders (Sambucus spp.)
Enkianthus (Enkianthus campanulatus)
Flowering quince (Chaenomeles speciosa)
Forsythias (Forsythia spp.)
Honeysuckles (Lonicera spp.)
Hydrangeas (Hydrangea spp.)
Japanese maples (Acer palmatum cvs.)
Kerria (Kerria japonica)
Large fothergilla (Fothergilla major)
Lilac (Syringa vulgaris)
Magnolias (Magnolia spp.)
Mock orange (Philadelphus coronarius)
Redtwig dogwood (Cornus alba and sericea)
Rugosa rose (Rosa rugosa)
Serviceberries (Amelanchier spp.)
Slender deutzia (Deutzia gracilis)
Smoke tree (Cotinus coggygria)
Spireas (Spiraea spp.)
Stewartia (Stewartia pseudocamellia)
Summersweet (Clethra alnifolia)
Sweetshrub (Calycanthus floridus)
Viburnums (Viburnum x burkwoodii and carlesii)
Virginia sweetspire (Itea virginica)
Weigelas (Weigela spp.)
Willows (Salix spp.)
Wintercreeper (Euonymus fortunei)
Winter hazels (Corylopsis spp.)
Witch hazels (Hamamelis spp.) 

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Support your local farmers

Written By: Gloria on April 17, 2012

savingdinner.com

If you haven’t enjoyed locally grown, fresh farm produce, then you aren’t living!! 

"There is growing concern within the food industry that the rising costs of energy for transportation, unfair labor practices, and the negative impact of chemicals used to boost food production are becoming increasingly unsustainable. One way that environmentally and socially conscious eaters are addressing these concerns is eating locally grown produce or by becoming a 'locavore.'" - HandsOnBlog.org

"A locavore is a person interested in eating food that is locally produced, not moved long distances to market. – Wikipedia.org

5 reasons you should support your local farmers:

ggp.com

  1. Buying from the farmers’ market allows the cost of food to be a little cheaper since there aren’t any warehousing or distribution delays.
  2. Fruits and vegetables stay fresh longer. The produce wasn’t picked two weeks ago and shipped all over the U.S. and touched by who knows how many people before it gets to you.
  3. Buying locally supports local farmers! Why wouldn’t you support a local, small business? Be a part of your community and support the local economy.
  4. Farm tours! They are fun and educational. You might just learn something interesting. Locate a farm near you and make sure to bring the kids!
  5. Farm fresh fruits and produce that have been grown locally have longer to ripen before harvest. They don’t have to be picked, packed, and shipped half way across the country. They are going to your local farmers’ market, where more times than not, the produce was harvested that morning.

farm.stanford.edu

If you live in the Middle Tennessee area, you can check out Local Table farm guide to see what local farms are located near you. If you happen to live out of state, you can check out Local Harvest.

“Large scale chemical agriculture is poisoning our soils and our water, and weakening our communities. By buying direct from a family farm, you can help put a stop to this unfortunate trend. By buying organic produce from your local farmer, you are working to maintain a healthy environment, a vibrant community, and a strong and sustainable local economy for you and your kids to thrive in.”  - Local Harvest Family Farms                                                                                                        

dekalbschoolwatch.blogspot.com

I have compiled a list of local, sustainable farms within a 30 mile radius for the Cookeville, TN (Putnam Co.) area:

Putnam Co.

3 Sisters Farm
Cockspur Farm – 9 mi.
Barefoot Farm – 14 mi.
Waters Farm – 12 mi.
Hidden Springs Orchard – 15 mi.
Peaceful Pastures – 23 mi.

Jackson Co.

Backwater Farm Nursery – 14 mi.
Reynolds Family Farm – 14 mi.
Starry Hill Farm – 26 mi. 

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Using Vermicompost (worm castings)

Written By: Gloria on April 13, 2012

(zmotion.missionplace.com)

Worm castings are one of the best all-natural fertilizers you can supplement your garden and indoor plants with. It can be used like ordinary (aerobic) compost and you can't over do it. Worm castings will not burn up your plants. You can dig it in lightly around your plants in the topsoil or you can use it as a soil amendment. Worm castings are packed full of nutrients which allows it to go twice as far as the aerobic composts, so use half as much. If you are starting a new bed, I would suggest spreading the castings at a depth of 3 inches and till it in.

For plants in pots and containers, I suggest mixing 25% worm castings into your potting mix. This is about ideal, but experiment. It may vary according to what you are mixing with. Worm castings are great for starting seeds. Just a little tid bit: Worm castings contain 5 times more nitrogen, 7 times more phosphorus, and 11 times more potassium than ordinary soil.

(healthyandfabulous.com)

Worm castings can also be used as a compost tea. Mix two tablespoons of castings with a liter of water and let it stand for a day, shaking occasionally, then water under the plants. (One liter water bottles make a good watering container if you drill a few small-diameter holes in the lid.) Compost tea is great to use when transplanting. Using a slightly diluted version of your compost tea will help prevent transplant shock if you water in your plants with it afterwards. If you're looking to purchase some yummy goodness for your plants, check out Grower's Solution for worm castings.

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Using Shade Cloth

Written By: Gloria on April 4, 2012

windblowndustanddirt.blogspot.com

Having done my share of work in a high tunnel in the summer, I can tell you, for a fact, that shade cloth is quite possibly the best item you can purchase for yourself as well as your plants.
If you happen to live in a humid area, misting or fogging may not be enough to cool your greenhouse during those hot, summer months. But when all else fails, don't fret. You can create your own relief by putting a shade cloth over your greenhouse. If you haven't checked out Grower's Solution for shade cloths, I think now is as good a time as any. The temperatures will only be heating up.  
 
Shade cloths are polyethylene. They are made of loosely knitted polyester or even aluminum and can be found in varying densities or degrees of shade from approx. 5% to 95%. Remember, shading will affect your plant growth so choose as low a density as you can get away with. Most plants will do best with a maximum of 40% - 60% shade.
 (http://faq.gardenweb.com/faq/lists/strucs/2002045746008090.html)

Choosing a shade cloth with grommets will make it a lot easier to install. Use nylon cord or rope to secure the shade cloth to your greenhouse frame. If you purchase one of the cloths without grommets, Grower’s Solution sells plastic grommets called Shark Bite or Clip-It shade cloth clips. If your greenhouse has roof vents that open, you may have to install your shade cloth in sections to accommodate this. Shade cloth is open weave fabric so it can go directly over windows. Its best to attach the shade cloth so it can be rolled up or retracted as needed. 
Shade cloth has many uses in the home, recreational areas, gardens, greenhouses, and agriculture. The most common use for shade cloth is backyard shade - over a deck, gazebo or pergola. For this type of use, our most popular product is the 70% Saddle Tan.
If you live in a warmer climate, you may want to consider the 85% dark green or 70% smoke blue. You can use it as a tarp and cover outdoor play areas or the bed of your truck when hauling materials. It can be draped over raised lettuce beds in the summer where wire hoops have been placed. For more information on this, here is an article from Mother Earth News- Growing Lettuce Under Shade Cloth. Whatever shade cloth project you're planning, let Grower's Solution help you get there!!

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Precision Garden Seeders

Written By: Gloria on March 29, 2012

toolmonger.com

It’s time to get seeding! But, you don’t want to injure your back from beau coups of bending over to direct seed. Check out Grower’s Solution for a precision garden seeder and get growing! You will have more time to enjoy the other aspects of gardening.
An ideal row crop planter, the 1001-B is a tool that takes the guesswork out of planting any row crop.

Here’s how it works: Install one of the precision seed plates that best fits your seed, adjust the depth of planting on the ground opener, then set your 30” long row marker for the desired width. Fill the seed hopper with seeds, then begin pushing in your well tilled soil. That’s it! The results will speak for themselves when days later you look at your garden and see all the row crops coming out of the ground at the same time; perfect, making you the envy of all gardeners who don’t have the 1001-B. Standard Seed plates included with the 1001-B are (6 standard plates): 18100 Sweet Corn,  18101 Radish, Leeks, Spinach, 18102 Carrots, Lettuce, Turnips, 18103 Beans, Small Peas, 18104 Jumbo Peas, 18105Beets, Okra, Swiss Chard. The 1001-B Precision Garden Seeder drops the seed at a precise depth, a precise spacing, covers and packs all in one operation… Eliminating the problems of seed rot and skipped plants.

  • All aircraft aluminum semi-assembled frame and New Row Marker Retaining Clip to secure the row marker
  • Rustproof wheels
  • Six precision seed plates 
  • 30” aluminum row marker 
  • Adjustable ground opener 
  • Cover chain 
  • 5-year Limited Warranty

southernstates.com

The 1001-B Precision Garden Seeder will travel 36” for one revolution of the seed plate. If you have problems with small seeds getting behind the seed plate, dip the seed plate in soapy water then let air dry. This should solve your problem. For more information on the seed plates or for a manual of the Earthway Precision Garden Seeder, follow these links. 

Seed plate guide
Assembly and Instructions

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Garden Carts

Written By: Gloria on March 23, 2012

Ever wish to make your gardening life a little easier? Invest in a garden cart from Grower's Solution!

stacksandstacks.com

Garden carts are owned by the garden enthusiasts. They are very useful for various purposes. The garden cart can be used for moving different things from place to another. The carts can also be used for storing all kinds of tools. The best thing about the cart is that you can do all kinds of work without any effort especially, if you require transporting a lot of things. For example, it can be used for moving soil or sand, transporting plants, removing the yard refuse, dumping gravel and even hauling firewood. Garden carts also help prevent back injuries from trying to lift and carry heavy objects. They do much of the work for you so you don't have to!!  

( http://articlegrounds.com/advantages-of-garden-carts/#comments)
 Check out Grower's Solution for a variety of carts. 

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Using Row Covers

Written By: Gloria on March 12, 2012

gardenharvestsupply.com

With the coming of spring and warmer weather, we can expect to start seeing more pests. More pests mean more problems, but not to worry. Using row cover for pest and weather protection is easy and relatively cheap. Check out Grower’s Solution for row covers . They sell 3 different varieties of thickness for the different seasons.

Row covers are easy to use and last several seasons when stored properly. They allow sunlight and rain to permeate, but block the majority of heat during the day, trapping and using the soil’s warmth at night. Row covers help protect against pesky, bad bugs such as aphids, cabbage worms, leaf miners, Japanese beetles, and more.
I have provided a breakdown of row covers:

Featherweight – Insect netting, primarily used in the summer time to keep out pests and to reduce the amount of heat from direct sunlight. This cover transmits up to 85 percent sunlight. I wouldn’t recommend using this cover for frost protection.
All- Purpose – Provides season extension in early spring and late fall. It helps the soil hold heat, keeps out pests and is a great windbreak for transplants. This cover transmits up to 80 percent sunlight. It also provides protection against light frosts overnight, down to 28 degrees.
Heavy – A thicker version of All-Purpose, used for season extension in early spring and late fall, or for insulating berries and small fruits, herbs, perennials, and other tender plants all winter long. This cover transmits up to 60 percent sunlight. It also provides excellent protection from frosts, down to 24 degrees.

Most plants do not like to bear the weight of the row cover so wire hoops are necessary for optimal growth while the cover is in use. Using wire hoops for season extension is very important. Plants touching the row cover during a freeze are highly susceptible to frost damage. Grower’s Solution sells the coiled wire that is used to make hoops. There is approximately 171 ft. of wire. Depending on the size of the plant being covered, this is approximately 32 hoops if they are cut at 63 inches in length. The hoops need to be spaced out 3-5 feet in the row being protected.

organicgardening.com

You can cover the edges of the row cover with soil or you can use sand bags to hold it down. Either one works well. Just fold up the fabric when you are through and store in a cool, dry area away from direct sunlight.

Here is a short informational video from Johnny's Seeds about row covers. 

Row Covers for protecting plants

 

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Growing Strawberries

Written By: Gloria on March 10, 2012

ezgardening.org

Growing strawberries in containers is one of the best options for people without a lot of space. Strawberries are very easy to grow and manage, even for someone who doesn’t have a green thumb. To order strawberry plants, check out Grower’s Solution. They have 4 varieties to choose from.

If you aren't sure what to grow your strawberries in, I suggest Smart Pots. They are made for container gardening. The Smart Pot is a soft-sided, aeration container, uniquely designed to improve the root structure of your plants enabling them to grow to their full potential. (www.smartpots.com/why-better)

“I had been thinking of the strawberry jars and "gro-bags" available and what a fine substitute the "Smart Pots" would make. The first season, I planted strawberries in one and a culinary herb garden in another. After filling the container with potting mix, I used a utility knife to cut "X's" in various locations in the "Smart Pots" walls. For my new "strawberry jar" I planted several strawberry plants on top and several others roughly spaced into the walls all around the pot. Later in the season, I would cut additional "X's" and place the new runner plants in the walls. The plants did wonderfully well and had plenty of fruit. The "Smart Pot" strawberries even survived a northeast winter after I buried them in the late fall under about 1 ½ to 2 feet of leaves.”  
-Marty Gottlieb, former New York state Coop Ag Extension agent 

There are just a few things you will need to know:

  • Strawberries like full sunlight, they need at least 6 hours of it for a decent flush of berries. Setting them outside during sunny days works well. If you are unable to get natural sunlight, there is always the option of setting up an area inside with a grow lamp. Or if you have window sill space that is east or south facing, you can grow them there. 
  • Strawberries have shallow root systems so they will need to be watered often, but make sure not to over water. 
  • Strawberries prefer a mild climate, temperatures usually ranging from 65-70 degrees. If the temperatures become too hot while your plants are outside, move them into the shade or bring them inside.
  • Strawberries do need some space to grow just like most plants, so keep this in mind when transplanting. 

Check out Grower's Solution for Smart Pots. They have all different kinds of sizes. You should also check out Grower's NuMix potting soils and Grower's worm castings.  Get growing!!  
 

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